logo
homecontactabout usnewsbucketsspecialist attachmentsalligator crushersquick hitchesrubber tracksspare partsbavtraksecurity and trackingtechnical resourcemotorsportused equipmentengineeringcareers
 

Technical resource

 
     
 

Technical Hints for Excavator Owners & Operators
With these notes we give hints to guide you in maintaining and operating your excavator. These are meant to augment, not replace, instructions given in your handbook and parts book which are supplied with each new excavator.

Our notes are short and may not be comprehensive. They do, however, answer most of the common questions that we at DIGBITS are asked on a regular basis. Below are the headings for quick reference.

 
     
 
 
   
 

OPERATING

In general, for safety reasons on work sites, excavators should only be used by fully trained operators, who are familiar with the technical and safety aspects of this type of machinery.

However, there are cases, on DIY hires for example, where this is not the case, and the hints below may be of use. These should be read in conjunction with the safety instructions provided by the manufacturer and/or hirer of the machine and are by no means intended as a full set of instructions and guidelines.

Hints:

  1. Safety. Always observe site and machine safety rules, which should include:
  2. a. MAINTENANCE. Carry out all service checks and adjustments each day and ensure the excavator is in safe condition. (See Daily Service Checks)
    b. THINK! Before you start operating the excavator, whilst it is warming-up, consider the safety issues, for you, your fellow workers, and the general public.
    c. NEVER get off an excavator without

    • Lowering bucket (and blade, where fitted) to the ground.
    • Stopping engine and/or disengaging safety lever.

    d. NEVER work

    • With you or other workers under the boom, dipper or bucket, or in the operating arc of the machine. Keep co-workers and spectators clear at all times.
    • Under the excavator when it is jacked up on the arm and dozer.

    e.NEVER use the excavator as a crane.
    f. ALWAYS ensure you are aware of the location of overhead, or underground services – gas, electricity, water, drainage, and telecommunications.
    g. TAILSWING. Be aware that the counterweight, at the rear of your excavator, can swing out wider than your tracks. Keep co-workers and spectators out of the tail swing area.
    h. PASSENGERS. Do not allow anyone to ride on the machine as a passenger. On all be the very largest of excavators, there is only one seat provided – for the operator.
    i. CHILDREN. Do not allow children to operate the excavator.

  3. Stability. Always remember that the stability of an excavator is variable, both in terms of dynamics and site conditions, and depends on:
  4. a. Ground Conditions. Be aware that the ground may not give sufficient support for your excavator, particularly at reach. (With heavy, long-reach machines, even roadways may give way.)
    b. Reach. The higher, or further out you reach with the excavator arm, the greater the risk of the machine tipping over, or the ground giving way.
    c. Speed. The faster you track, slew, or swing the dipper arm, the greater the risk of the machine tipping over.
    d. Position. Excavators will normally have maximum stability when working in line with the tracks, and minimum stability when digging across the tracks.
    e. Weight. Increased weight on the end of the digging arm – be it a bucket or attachment – will reduce the machines stability. Be aware of your machines safe working weights, and never use overrated buckets or attachments as they can damage the machine and destabilise it.
    f. Gradients. Take care when operating on gradients, and avoid crossing the slope or making sharp turns. Travel up and down slopes with the bucket close to the ground.
    g. Travelling. Always fold the digging arm in towards the excavator when tracking. Never travel with the arm fully raised or extended at full reach.

  5. Speed. Until you are familiar with a particular machine (or bucket/attachment) do not operate at maximum engine speed. Operate smoothly and gradually increase engine speed and power.
  6. Digging. For stability always try to dig over the track sprockets, in line with the tracks. On mini excavators, this will be with the dozer blade to the rear (this will also avoid damage to the blade and dipper ram), and if possible the blade should pushed down until the rear of the track is about 25mm off the ground.
  7. Controls. Most excavators – whatever size – have a very similar control layout for the main digging function (click here to see diagram):
  8. a. Training: We recommend these notes are used in addition to, rather than instead of, relevant operator training.
    b. Up & Down: Lift is mainly* influenced by the boom ram(s), are normally controlled by pulling back (up) or pushing forward (down) the right hand joystick/lever.
    c. In & Out: Reach is mainly* influenced by the dipper ram, which is normally controlled by pulling back (in) or pushing forward (out) the left hand joystick/lever.
    d. Curl & Dump: The emptying or filling of the bucket is mainly* influenced by the bucket ram, which is controlled by pressing left (curl/fill) or pressing right (dump/empty) the right hand joystick/lever.
    e. Slew/Swing: To rotate the upper structure of the machine on the track frame, press the left hand control lever in the required direction; left to slew left/anti-clockwise, or right to slew right/clockwise.
    f. Tracking: This may be via levers and/or foot pedals in front of the operator. When the machine is facing forwards (i.e. the track drive sprockets are at the rear) the right and left tracking levers control the right and left tracks respectively. However, this stays the same, no matter which way the upper structure is slewed, and therefore takes a little getting used to!
    g. Other: There are other controls within the cab. On smaller machines, there is often a dozer blade, which is raised or lowered by a lever in the cab. There may also be foot pedals controlling the auxiliary (i.e. attachment) hydraulics and, in the case of smaller machines with boom offset, the swing of the arm about the upper structure of the machine. There may also be an engine throttle control, although on newer and/or larger machines, this is often computerised with options for performance modes.

  9. Spoil. Place spoil away from the sides of the trench, and try to keep tracks free from spoil and debris.
  10. Dozing. Use the dozer blade carefully and sparingly. Excessive use and deep cuts using the dozer will reduce undercarriage life.
  11. Attachments. The following guidelines are useful in relation to ancillary attachments.
  12. a. Size/Rating. Never use attachments that are overrated (i.e. too large or powerful) for your machine. Not only can they damage you machine (e.g. overrated hammers can bend and break dippers and rams), they can also severely destabilise the excavator, both through weight, and dynamic forces.
    b. Collision. Be aware that attachments may collide with parts of the machine that ordinary buckets will clear. This may include the operator cab, so operate slowly at first and pay full attention. Be particularly careful when first operating an attachment.
    c. Weight. Be aware that attachments may be heavier than standard buckets, although they should never exceed your machines safe working capability. If in doubt check. They may cause a decrease in stability so operate slowly at first and pay full attention. Be particularly careful when first operating an attachment.
    d. Work. Be aware that there are additional considerations with attachments that can pick up objects:

    • It may be possible to attempt to pick up objects that are heavy enough to overload and de-stabilise the excavator. This should be avoided.
    • The objects you are attempting to pick up may not be stable. Try to avoid picking up objects that may swing, slip or overbalance, as this can de-stabilise the excavator and cause danger to other site workers.
  13. Side Swiping. NEVER use the excavator arm to "side swipe". This can cause serious damage to both the arm and also the bucket/attachment, in extreme cases the dipper arm will be destroyed.

MAINTENANCE & SERVICING

For full requirements, please check the manufacturers Operators Manual, specific to your excavator. As a rough guide, the following daily checks should be made:

Daily Checks:

  1. Check engine oil level and top up if necessary.
  2. Check radiator coolant level and top up if necessary.
  3. Check hydraulic oil level and top up if necessary.
  4. Check fuel level and top up if necessary.
  5. Check battery(s) electrolyte level and top up if necessary.
  6. Check fan & alternator drive belt tension and adjust if necessary.
  7. Check tracks are not clogged with dried or frozen mud and debris.
  8. Check track adjustment tension if necessary.
  9. Grease all points on the excavator arm, and attachment (and also on the slew ring assembly approximately every 50 hours), bearing in mind:

    a. Use correct grease. If you have a very high temperature or high impact job, you will need a better grade of grease. Work in very wet weather or partial submersion of water may cause wash out of standard grease – use high washout resistant grease.
    b. The dipper end and attachment may need to be greased more regularly than one a day under conditions were they are exposed to water, sand, salt or fine dust.

  10. In hot and dusty conditions, check the air filter element(s) and clean if necessary.
  11. Check bucket/attachment pins are properly secured with the correct retaining clips or bolts. Unsecured pins can easily come adrift causing damage to the bucket/attachment and the excavator, as well as posing a safety issue.

KNOW YOUR MACHINE

For almost all parts, spares, buckets and attachments, it is vital that you know which excavator you have. This advice may appear to be patronising, but it is common for us to receive enquiries where the only information the owner can offer is that "it’s an orange digger" or "it’s got a Kubota engine". Lots of manufacturers use orange paint, and equally, there are a lot (other than just Kubota) who fit Kubota engines.

Whether you are talking to us, a main dealer, manufacturer, or reporting the theft of a machine (and hoping to stand some chance of getting it recovered) to the Police, you at least need to know:

  1. Make of Machine, e.g. Samsung
  2. Full model of excavator, e.g. SE210-3. N.B. This is not necessarily as is written on the side of the excavators engine cover, so check also on the machine serial number plate (normally located near the cab/boom at the front of the chassis).
  3. Serial number, again, this can be found, like the model information, on the serial number plate. There may be significant component changes on the same model of excavator, built at different times.
  4. Country of manufacture. Most large manufacturers have at least two factories – one in Europe and another outside the EU - and in some instances, the excavators may vary either on a component level, or in some cases the whole machine. Machines which are non-EU specification and are imported second-hand into the EU are often referred to as grey imports, and may, in some cases be difficult to obtain spares for.

BUCKETS

There is often a degree of confusion, and even ignorance, where buckets are concerned, and yet this is quite literally the sharp-end of the whole machine, where all the work is done.
People spend tens, or even hundreds of thousands of pounds on the latest excavator, and then negate any advantages gained by fitting them with old, or incorrectly specified buckets. Whether they fit the same old, ‘patched-up antique’ buckets that have been knocking around their plant yard for years, or buy the cheapest new bucket they can find, irrespective of build and quality, the net result is that their machine will under perform.

Buying and Using:

At DIGBITS, we understand that getting the right buckets, and using them correctly is vital. Having the right tool for the job maximises efficiency and prevents damage.

There are a few general bucket rules which apply to all excavators:

  1. Cycle Times: Bear in mind that the fastest cycle times (i.e. the time taken to dig a full bucket load, tip it into a truck/skip/hopper and return to the dig position) are NOT necessarily achieved with the widest or largest capacity bucket. This is especially true in harder ground conditions.
  2. Stability: It is not generally advisable to exceed the maximum bucket width declared in your machines specifications. Any modifications to the machine work equipment – boom or dipper extensions, quick-hitches etc. – will tend to de-rate the overall machine stability.
  3. Narrow Digging: On most machines, the limiting factor for bucket width will be the width of the bucket linkage and pins. It is possible to build taller narrower buckets, though these may have a reduced breakout capability, the potential for collisions with parts of the excavator with normal buckets would not reach, and cannot dig deeper than the bucket itself.
  4. Digging Buckets: Keep the teeth in good condition, and try to catch any wear before it becomes critical (see Repairs) to avoid expense. Do not be tempted to use for heavy duty, demolition, rock or quarry applications – sadly most customers who buy our XHD buckets have already scrapped a perfectly good GP or HD buckets on these jobs.
  5. Ditching Buckets: These are designed for re-handling and levelling of soil, so expect them to dig compact or rocky ground. The width of these buckets, and their lighter construction means it is worth avoiding catching the outer edges on objects which are firmly fixed into the ground (e.g. large rocks or manholes) as they will bend. We are often asked why we don’t build them heavier – the answer is that you would end up putting a ‘corskcrew’ type bend into your dipper arm!
  6. XHD Buckets: These can be used on any application, from digging soil to digging and loading rocks in a quarry. Refer also to the notes on Digging Buckets and Cycle Times.
  7. Price. If you’ve read the notes above, you won’t be surprised to hear that with buckets – as with many things in life – the cheapest is rarely the best choice. We’ve all seen the sob stories, in the papers, on the TV (on shows like Watchdog) of people who’ve employed the cheapest builder, or gone on the cheapest holiday, had the cheapest double-glazing fitted, and ultimately, cheap buckets are just the same – the only good thing about them is the price. See Specification to find out why.
  8. Specification. Once you’ve decided the type of bucket you need – Digging, Ditching, XHD etc. – what you really need to know is the specification, in order to make a true comparison of what you’re getting for your money. Unfortunately, not all bucket manufacturers are as honest and forthcoming with this data, and for good reason too. These are the key criteria:

    a. Materials: Cheap steel, with low hardness (through, not just surface) is one of the most common problems with cheap kit. For larger gauge, high wear applications, we always use Hardox 400 (see our BUCKETS page for full information on this product) a registered and highly regarded trademark product, but some rivals will fob you off with a specification that quotes for "Hardbox"!
    b. Bosses: Another trick to cut cost out of buckets is to delete the machined pin bosses from the bucket pivot plates. This is done in two ways;

    • Drilling the pivot plates – this method offers a poorer bearing characteristic than welded-in, machined bosses, and will result in the pin holes wearing or even stretching far quicker than with welded-in bosses.
    • Welding ‘dummy’ pins into the pivot plates for Quick Hitch buckets. This is fine, until the pins wear, and then how do you replace/repair the pins? With conventionally fitted pins, you can at least turn the pins through 180 degrees to get some more wear out of them, without any special tools, but if they’re welded in place it’s far more complicated.

    c. Size: It sounds obvious, but cheaper buckets are very often smaller! How? Well most buckets are bought and sold on their cut width, but that’s only one key dimension, and the depth and height also factor into the overall capacity. We will supply all these key dimensions, and more, to our customers, so you don’t need to mess about with buckets which can often be as much as 25% lower in capacity?
    d. Delivery: Your buying a bucket to fulfil a specific need, so you’ll want to know when you can have a bucket delivered, and how much you will be charged for delivery to you or your site. If it’s being made to order, you also need to know an honest and accurate manufacture time. We NEVER mislead customers about any of these issues, but sadly we do know of numerous cases where customers feel they have been let down by other suppliers. Be sure you can trust your bucket supplier.

  9. Manufacture Time: We always try to sell customers the right bucket/attachment for their job, rather than just using the ‘let’s shift what we have in stock’ approach. Often we have stock of the right kit, but equally there are times where we need to manufacture to customers requirements. In this case, we will tell you an accurate build date, at the time of order, and we will stick to it. As a rough guide, we can normally guarantee the following lead times for buckets:

    a. Excavators from 0.5 to 5 tonnes; 5 working days.
    b. Excavators from 5 to 10 tonnes; 7 working days.
    c. Excavators from 10 to 20 tonnes; 10 working days.
    d. Excavators from 20 to 40 tonnes; 14 working days.
    e. Excavators over 40 tonnes; 21 working days.

Changing Buckets & Attachments:

This is a simple, step-by-step method of connecting any dipper end attachment:

  1. Try to ensure bucket is on level ground, or at very least is level with your excavator, at mid reach, so the dipper is in a vertical position.
  2. Align the dipper above the bucket pivots and extend the bucket ram out (i.e. curl-in, pulling right control lever to the left) so that the bucket link end is lower than the dipper end.
  3. Drop the bucket link into the rear pivot location of the bucket.
  4. Align the bucket link pinhole with the rear bucket pivot pinholes.
  5. Insert the rear bucket pin.
  6. Lift the dipper until bucket is clear of ground.
  7. Retract the bucket ram, and angle the dipper, in order to align the dipper end pinhole with the front bucket pivot pinholes.
  8. Insert front bucket pin.
  9. Check bucket/attachment pins are properly secured with the correct retaining clips or bolts. Unsecured pins can easily come adrift causing damage to the bucket/attachment and the excavator, as well as posing a safety issue.
  10. Ensure pins are greased.
  11. Carefully rotate bucket through full range of boom, dipper and bucket ram movements tacking care to check for any potential collision (especially near the dipper and link ends where the leverage is highest) in order to ensure the bucket/attachment you have fitted is compatible with your machine and is not faulty.

Ultimately, for speed and ease of use, we would highly recommend using one of our Quick Hitches – whatever the size of your excavator.

Repairs:

Buckets for machines under ten tonnes in weight can rarely be repaired when worn. This is because the cost of removing and then replacing parts can be more than the price of a new bucket.

We can offer a repair service for large excavators buckets (for excavators over 10 tonnes), although we need to see the buckets at our works in order to give an accurate quotation. Repair options include:

  1. Re-pivoting: changing bucket pivots (where suitable) to suit different excavator set-up.
  2. New cutting edges: replacing worn edge. (May also require remedial work to lower side reinforcing plates and side cutters)
  3. New tooth systems: fitted to new cutting edge.
  4. Wear ribs or straps: repairs to bucket back-plate.

It may not be economic (or possible) to repair buckets where:

  1. The bucket is bent or skewed (i.e. the opening when viewed from the front is not ‘square’).
  2. The parent metals of the main shell structure are worn beyond sensible limits.
  3. There are too many areas in need of change/repaired.

Bucket Teeth:

Worn teeth increase wear on boom pins and bushes, make the engine use more fuel and increase the time of excavation. Teeth should be inspected and replaced at regular intervals.


RUBBER TRACKS

DIGBITS have specialised in the supply of rubber tracks since 1991. Our mini excavator rubber tracks come with a 1000 hour, or one year’s warranty*. Bear in mind that many excavator manufacturers do not cover tracks in their warranty schedule, and are therefore very unlikely to cover replacement/second fit tracks.

However, even our warranty does not include for abuse, only manufacturing defects. Observing the guidelines in this section will help ensure you get the longest, safest service from your new rubber tracks.

*This does not apply to skid steer loader tracks, and machines have a travel speed over 3 mph, where the warranty is 500 hours, or six months.

Ground Conditions and Use:

Rubber tracks were designed primarily to avoid damage by steel tracks on paved surfaces, for use on flat, hard surfaces.

To get best life from your rubber tracks, it is vital to follow the guidelines below, as well as any guidelines in your machine’s excavator operators manual:

  1. Surfaces: Avoid, as far as possible, using the machine on sharp, uneven surfaces.
  2. Debris: Keep the tracks clean of soil, stones and other debris by keeping your work area tidy. In quarries where very large (100 tonne plus) excavators work, there is often a small bulldozer working, just for this purpose – it does pay dividends!
  3. Clogging: During either cold and/or very wet weather mud and debris can freeze and/or dry solid within the tracks. Parking the machine overnight or for long periods on timbers will to help avoid these issues.
  4. Tension: Keep tracks tensioned correctly. De-tracking can cause extensive damage to the core wires of the tracks, especially of the sprocket punctures the rubber.
  5. Speed: Be aware that constant use of fast travel will severely reduce track life. In rough terms, doubling tracking speed will cut track life expectancy by 75%.
  6. Dozer work: Excessive use of the dozer blade will put more stress on the tracks than ordinary tracking and digging, especially if debris become trapped in the tracks. (Remember that on larger machines, dozers have far heavier tracks than the equivalent weight of excavator, because of this fact.)
  7. Edges: Balancing the machine over an edge (e.g. high kerb) can damage tracks and undercarriage.
  8. Steps: When tracking the machine up a step-change in gradient (e.g. kerb or step), try to approach head-on and use the bucket to aid the climb, remembering to work the machine within the stability parameters set by the manufacturer.
  9. Kerbs: Do not drive with the track edges pressed against, or up kerbs or other hard step changes.
  10. Turns: Avoid fast, sharp turns, especially on either very grippy or very soft ground.
  11. Transporting: Transporting or lifting the excavator with chains/straps bending or cutting into the rubber will shorten life and may damage them. (See further notes in TRANSPORTATION section.)
  12. Repairs: Always repair cuts and damage to avoid corrosion of the track core wires and metal inserts.
  13. Undercarriage: Always check the condition of your undercarriage components. (See UNDERCARRIAGE section.)
  14. As far as possible, limit the exposure of new tracks to oil, grease, salt, excessive sunlight and moisture whilst in storage. In use it is impossible to completely avoid all of these, but be aware they all may reduce track life.
  15. Avoid bending or folding new tracks sharply when storing.

Track Sizes:

It used to be possible to identify track from just three key dimensional features;

  1. Width – the overall tread width of the track
  2. Pitch the spacing between the centres of the metal links/inserts
  3. Links - the number of metal links/inserts
    e.g. 230x072x42 = 230mm wide, 72mm pitch, with 42 links

However, as track and undercarriage technology has evolved, there are other key criteria to be identified. Track inserts can be designed to mesh specifically with different types of rollers, also some tracks have ‘offset’ type treads where the guides for the sprocket, rollers and idlers are not in the centre of the metal inserts. Tread types also factor into this.

Hence, the plain old 230x072x42 track has now become (in our full size designation) a 230x072x42 XAR.

Not all manufacturers like to put the full (or even partial) information onto their tracks, which is why, to be safe and ensure we offer you the correct tracks, we’d usually prefer to know the exact make and model of machine when we are quoting you. We have a computerised database of about 3,800 machines (and increasing) to ensure you get the right tracks.

Due to the growing complexity of track systems, getting the wrong tracks is not always immediately apparent. We have heard stories of our competitors offering and tracks which ‘will fit’, often at a peculiarly low price, only for them to fail within 12 months.

When you consider the potential damage to other undercarriage components, the cost and inconvenience of unnecessary site visits for your fitter, and the upset for your customers, is it really worth saving a few pounds on a track?

If we are not sure our tracks will fit your machine, we will tell you, and also advise you that (even though they may be more expensive) it may be worth buying the genuine parts in this instance.

Changing a rubber track:

If only one track is replaced at a time, make sure that the other one has some tread left .If one track is nearly bald, and the other is new then the newer track can take most of the tractive effort. This again will not help to prolong life.

  1. First place the excavator on firm, level ground.
  2. Next swing the machine round and push up with the bucket to raise the track off the ground.
  3. Before proceeding further remove the ignition key and put wooden chocks under the excavator to prevent it dropping in case of a mechanical or hydraulic failure.
  4. Next reduce track tension by removing the grease nipple and pushing the end idler assembly to exude the grease.
  5. Remove old track, checking that the new track is the correct size.
  6. Fit new track, putting sprocket end on first.
  7. Replace grease nipple and re-tension the track, as detailed in the ‘Tensioning’ section, using your grease gun.
  8. Before removing the timber and lowering the machine to the ground, check that under carriage components are not worn.

Tensioning:

The correct tension for a 1.5 tonne mini excavator is normally about 10-15mm up and down movement in the middle, but can be greater for larger excavators. These figures give a rough guide:

1.0 to 1.9 tonne minis    10-15mm
2.0 to 2.9 tonne minis    30-35mm
3.0 to 5.0 tonne minis    40-45mm

Re-check the tension after and hour or so of operation, not least because this is unfortunately the most common time for the idler adjuster seals to fail.

Check track tension every 100 hours.

If the track is too slack, it may come off whilst turning in soft ground. If too tight then hard stones carried round on to the sprocket may split the track.


UNDERCARRIAGE COMPONENTS

Worn undercarriage components, particularly worn drive sprockets, will shorten track life and greatly increase the strain on track motors and gearboxes. There are also other issues to consider:

Sprockets

The sprockets should normally be replaced at the same time as worn out tracks. Effects of worn sprockets include:

  1. Accelerated track wear.
  2. Slipping in tracks causing shock loadings to drive motor.
  3. Increased likelihood of de-tracking and subsequent damage to tracks.

Bottom Rollers

Bottom rollers are designed to take transfer the majority the excavators weight and dynamic forces, through the tracks, and onto the ground. Check for wear on a regular basis. It is best to replace all the bottom rollers on one side. If only one roller per side is changed, then as the new roller may be slightly larger in diameter it will carry a higher load and have a shorter life.
Backlash or play in the bottom rollers will:

  1. Reduce the excavator’s stability.
  2. Increase the point loadings of less worn rollers, thereby increasing peak ground bearing pressure.
  3. Accelerate track wear.
  4. Increase the likelihood of de-tracking and subsequent damage to tracks.
  5. Increase the load on the track motor and gearbox.

Top Rollers

The top rollers are designed to carry the tracks over the top of the track frame and are part of the tensioning system. The clearance over the track frame afforded by the top rollers is useful in terms of allowing debris to fall free of the tracks, rather than becoming wedged between the track and the upper surface of the track frame.
Wear in top rollers if often neglected and they are only replaced when it is catastrophic, causing problems with:

  1. Loss of track tension.
  2. Increase the likelihood of de-tracking and subsequent damage to tracks.

Idler Wheels

The idler wheels are a fundamental component of the undercarriage. As well as transferring some of the track frame loads into the tracks, their key function is to feed the tension from the adjuster into the tracks. Failure will:

  1. Reduce the excavator’s stability.
  2. Result in a loss of track tension.
  3. Increase the point loadings on rollers, thereby increasing peak ground bearing pressure.
  4. Accelerate track wear.
  5. Increase the likelihood of de-tracking and subsequent damage to tracks.
  6. Increase the load on the track motor and gearbox.

BOOM PINS, BUSHES, SEALS & SHIMS

When components on the excavator arm are worn it becomes very difficult to dig or position attachments with accuracy. Ultimately, components failing can cause injury or death.

Digbits stock tens of thousands of pins, bushes, shims, dust seals and link arms for machines from under one tonne up to over 45 tonnes.

Damage Prevention:

Regular inspections (as detailed by your manufacturer) and use of the grease gun are vital. Expensive damage can be caused if pins or bushes are allowed to wear to the point of failure. We frequently supply new dipper-end bosses as a result of unnecessary damage caused in this way.

Removing Old Bushes:

Removing old, worn bushes can be a problem. One good method for steel bushes is to put a ring of weld on the inside of the bush. As the weld cools the bush will contract and shrink. It can then be tapped out gently.
Important! Never hit hardened steel bushes directly with a steel hammer – they can shatter –, use a soft metal mallet or a wooden block, and always wear eye protection.
Important! Never use excessive force when removing or fitting hardened steel bushes into housings. In extreme cases the bush can distort the housing, causing misalignment and permanent damage, and may also shatter.

Fitting New Bushes:

When new machines are assembled in the factory, hardened steel bushes are often ‘shrunk fit’ or ‘freeze fit’ into housings/bosses, by dipping them into liquid nitrogen, prior to fitting. If you do not have access to these facilities, chilling the bushes in an ordinary domestic freeze (wrap them up so you don’t get oil and grease on anything edible!) will serve the same purpose.
Don’t be tempted to apply heat to the housing/boss, in an attempt to expand it, as this rarely works and often (if the walls expand inwards) makes the job even harder.
Important! Never hit hardened steel bushes directly with a steel hammer – they can shatter –, use a soft metal mallet or a wooden block, and always wear eye protection.
Important! Never use excessive force when removing or fitting hardened steel bushes into housings. In extreme cases the bush can distort the housing, causing misalignment and permanent damage, and may also shatter.


TRANSPORTATION

  1. Rope or strap the excavator securely.
  2. Secure the excavator on your trailer or lorry using the track frame and not the rubber tracks, as this can damage the tracks, and is may also allow the machine to move.
  3. Use the slew lock pin.
  4. Caution should be exercised when carrying buckets and attachments as they are heavy and may take the vehicle over the legal weight limit.
 

 


LIFTING

In general, excavators should not strictly be used as cranes, even if they have check valves fitted to their lift rams.

However, there are certain circumstances where it is necessary to lift using and excavator, particularly where it is safer than manual handling.

We do supply pallet fork attachments, block/kerb grabs, and also lifting eyes on our larger quick hitches, all of which are tested.

You MUST check to the safety and integrity of any such equipment and procedures with the relevant lifting ad safety bodies, beforehand, taking into account:

  1. Seek advice from qualified lifting gear safety inspectors.
  2. All lifting attachments must be tested and certified on a regular basis, by qualified lifting gear safety inspectors.
  3. As well as the attachments, your machine itself should be tested (taking into account the manufacturers declared safe working limits) and the safe working load displayed clearly on the excavator arm.
  4. Never assume that an excavator can lift to the capacity of it’s attachment – normally the attachment’s capacity should exceed that of the excavator.
  5. Remember to account for the weight of the attachment on the excavator arm, and in the case of lifting eyes on Quick Hitches, the weight of any bucket attached. It is clearly advisable to keep this to a minimum.
  6. Never allow co-workers or spectators into the working arc of the machine, especially under a raised load.
  7. Never loop chains or straps over the bucket linkage and tipping linkage, as this is unsafe and will cause damage to the excavator.
  8. Notes on OPERATING should be read.

HYDRAULIC RAM REPAIRS

We find that an increasing number of our customers do not wish to tackle re-build or repairs on hydraulic rams. We do not offer this service, and would therefore advise customers to look for a suitable hydraulic engineer locally, which can normally be found in your Yellow Pages, or on the Yell.com website. In the Midlands area, we can recommend Midland Hydraulics in Tamworth; Tel: 01827 59011.


HYDRAULIC HOSES

We don’t get involved with hoses, but would advise customers looking for hoses can consider one of two options:

  1. For the lowest price, find a local hydraulics specialist in your Yellow Pages, or on the Yell.com website. You will have to visit their premises, or submit a detailed specification/drawing of the hose you need.
  2. Call any of the large, national on-site hose fitters – Pirtek and Dunlop Hyflex are two examples – and they will come out to the machine, identify the faulty hose, manufacture a replacement and fit it. This is the more expensive option, but you are paying for convenience and expertise.

SLEW RING & PINION PROBLEMS

Older machines may have slew ring wear problems. We do not cater for this and suggest that you contact B & C Reconditioning [Gears] Ltd., on 01980 623210.


BUYING YOUR EXCAVATOR

As with any machinery, you can choose to buy New, or Used. Before you look at those options in detail, consider some more general criteria:

  1. Capacity: What capacity of machine do you think you need? Excavators are always classified by their operating weight – a 1.5 tonne mini weights about 1.5 tonnes or 1500kgs – and often model numbers refer to this. In simple terms, a heavy machine with a bigger counterweight, can cope with a bigger boom/arm assembly, with more engine power. Obviously other things change to accommodate this – bigger track frames and motors to cope with the extra weight for example – but this is the main, basic difference between different sizes of excavator.
  2. Size: Do you envisage any size or weight restrictions for your work? Is it possible you might buy an excavator that is to large for your jobsites (or your transport), or conversely, might you have reach/power considerations which rule out smaller machines? For example, do you need to dig to a certain depth, or load over a certain height? Do you need to dig narrow trenches, or work under/inside of structures?
  3. Make: A difficult question this, as you’ll rarely get an objective view from other owners, but nevertheless, this is a good source of information. Things to bear in mind are service costs and resale values – easily checked out – as well as the access to dealers and spare parts.
  4. Age: Diggers, when looked after properly, can last many years (we still stock and sell parts for popular minis built in the mid 1980’s!) although as a rule of thumb, you may need to be prepared for more expensive items – such as slew rings – to fail on machines over 5 years old. Unless you’re mechanically minded and like a bit of spanner work, or you’re confident you can spot potential problems, stick to looking at machines under 5 years old. Don’t think you’ll ever avoid running costs such as tracks unless the machine is brand new – newer machines can use these just as quickly as older ones.

New

You can find the nearest manufacturer main dealers by using the information in the CONTACTING YOUR EXCAVATOR MANUFACTURER OR DEALER section.

  1. Reputation: Try and check this out with other users/owners before you go ahead and buy, to see what feedback you get on:
  2. a. Make – are other owners happy with it, and would they buy again?
    b. Dealer – is the service and pricing and location satisfactory?

  3. Residuals: Check the second hand plant directories – or ask to see the dealers used machinery list – to get an idea of what your machine might be worth if, and when you need to sell.
  4. Specifications: The big advantage with buying new is that you can, within reason, buy exactly the machine you need, although it’s wise to take some advice from the dealer salesperson as to what might be saleable when you come to dispose of the machine. Check the options and specifications of machines against one another for comparison, and try to establish which are most important to you.

Used

There are three main alternatives here – Dealers, Small Ads, Auctions - but you would be wise not to consider the two latter options unless you’re confident you know what to look out for, and how to fix any potential gremlins.
Refer also to the information in the KNOW YOUR MACHINE section.

    1. NEVER buy a machine without a serial number plate. How can you order spares for it, or insure it?
    2. CHECK that the model number shown on the decals matches that on the serial number plate. Incompetent or unscrupulous traders may ‘cosmetically’ update machines, with new paint and decals to look like a later model. Do the engine numbers match those on the serial number plate?
    3. CHECK the origin of the machine. You need to be aware that grey imports (machines imported from outside the EU) exist, and may not necessarily bear any resemblance to EU specification machines. Using non-EU, non CE marked machinery is not advisable.
  1. Dealers: There are manufacturers main dealers, and also machinery traders, who deal in all kinds of new or nearly new machines. Always try and check out a dealer’s reputation before you buy from them – they will generally be professionally run and provide good back up, but as with any industry there are rogues, and it’s not necessarily the smaller, independent outfits that give the worst service. If you think you’ll need some back-up from the dealer, try and buy from dealers who have experience and regular sales of the makes/models of machine you need, rather than those who are selling a one-off deal.
  2. Small Ads: Smaller owners and dealers frequently advertise excavators in trade magazines. As with buying cars or commercial vehicles, buying from these sources will place more risk and responsibility with the buyer, in terms of ensuring the machinery is in good condition, and is not stolen, but ultimately there should be significant saving by cutting out the dealer. However, you must ask yourself whether you are really qualified to make informed, competent decisions?
  3. Auctions: There are some very good bargains to be